Pakistani Chicken Biryani (Karachi Style)

Pakistani Chicken Biryani (Karachi Style)

Pakistani chicken biryani is the dish that turns up at every wedding, Eid lunch and Sunday family meal: long grains of basmati rice layered with a spicy, tangy chicken masala, then sealed and steamed so the rice soaks up all the flavour. This is the Karachi style, with yoghurt, tomatoes, potatoes and dried plums (aloo bukhara), and it is hotter and more aromatic than most restaurant biryanis outside Pakistan.

The method has three parts. First, a thick chicken masala cooked down with fried onions, yoghurt and whole spices. Second, rice boiled in heavily salted, spiced water until it is about three-quarters done. Third, the dum: rice layered over the masala with saffron milk, mint, coriander and fried onions, then cooked on very low heat under a tight lid so it finishes in the steam.

Pakistani cooks often use a packet biryani masala, and you can, but this recipe uses a homemade spice mix so you can control the heat. Serve with cucumber raita (yoghurt with cucumber) and a simple kachumber salad of tomato, onion and cucumber.

Ingredients

• 1 kg (2.2 lb) chicken, bone-in, cut into 12 pieces
• 3 cups (600 g) basmati rice, rinsed and soaked for 30 minutes
• ½ cup (120 ml) vegetable oil or ghee
• 3 medium onions, thinly sliced
• 2 medium potatoes, peeled and halved
• 1 tablespoon ginger paste
• 1 tablespoon garlic paste
• 3 medium tomatoes, chopped
• 1 cup (250 g) plain yoghurt, whisked
• 6 to 8 dried plums (aloo bukhara) or 2 tablespoons lemon juice
• 4 green chillies, slit
• 2 teaspoons salt (for the masala)
• 2 teaspoons Kashmiri chilli powder
• 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 2 teaspoons ground coriander
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1½ teaspoons garam masala
• ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg and mace (javitri), mixed
• 1 teaspoon cumin seeds, 2 bay leaves and 1 cinnamon stick (whole spices for the masala)
• 6 cloves, 6 green cardamoms, 1 black cardamom and 8 black peppercorns (whole spices for the masala)
• 4 litres (4 quarts) water and 3 tablespoons salt, for boiling the rice
• 2 bay leaves, 4 cloves and 1 teaspoon cumin seeds, for boiling the rice
• 1 pinch saffron soaked in 3 tablespoons warm milk (or ¼ teaspoon yellow food colour)
• ½ cup chopped mint
• ½ cup chopped fresh coriander (cilantro)
• 1 teaspoon kewra water or rose water (optional)

Directions

1. Heat the oil in a large heavy pot. Fry the sliced onions on medium heat for 12 to 15 minutes until deep golden. Lift out a third of them and set aside for layering.
2. Add the whole spices to the pot and fry for 30 seconds. Add the chicken, ginger and garlic pastes and cook on high heat for 5 minutes until the chicken changes colour.
3. Add the tomatoes, salt, chilli powder, turmeric, ground coriander and cumin. Cook for 8 to 10 minutes until the tomatoes break down and the oil starts to separate.
4. Stir in the yoghurt, potatoes, dried plums and green chillies. Cover and cook on low heat for 20 to 25 minutes until the chicken and potatoes are tender and the masala is thick. Stir in the garam masala and nutmeg-mace mix.
5. Meanwhile, bring the water to a rolling boil with the salt, bay leaves, cloves and cumin. Add the drained rice and boil for 5 to 6 minutes, until the grains are about three-quarters cooked and still have a firm centre. Drain well.
6. Spread half the rice over the chicken masala. Scatter half the mint, coriander and fried onions on top. Add the rest of the rice, then the remaining herbs and onions.
7. Drizzle the saffron milk and kewra water over the top in streaks. Cover with a tight lid (seal the edge with foil or a strip of dough).
8. Cook on high heat for 2 minutes, then on the lowest heat for 15 to 20 minutes (dum). If your hob runs hot, put a flat tawa or heavy pan under the pot.
9. Rest for 5 minutes, then gently mix the layers from the side of the pot with a flat spoon and serve with raita and kachumber salad.